An in vitro study found that the total content of the NAD+/NADH couplet was reduced by about 16% in adult skin fibroblasts relative to neonatal ones (although this difference was not statistically significant), and a complex containing niacinamide along with other ingredients increased total NAD+ levels in fibroblasts isolated from aged adult human skin.[234] A metabolite of nicotinamide known as 1-methylnicotinamide (MNA) is also thought to possess antiinflammatory effects when applied topically.[82]
Administration of niacinamide has been shown to restore NAD+/NADH levels in adult fibroblasts in vitro to youthful levels.
Low levels of glycosaminoglycan (GAG; made up of long sugar chains) are required for normal dermal structure in healthy skin, increased levels are associated with damaged or wrinkled skin.[235] Niacinamide has been noted to reduce GAG production in aged fibroblasts, although the suppression from 0.5-3mM niacinamide (15-29%) is less effective than 30µM Vitamin A (77%).[236] Niacin’s primary metabolite, MNA, may have the capacity to bind directly to GAG while nicotinamide itself does not.[82]
Acne vulgaris is a chronic skin disorder typically characterized by follicular hyperkeratinization, hormonally-mediated sebum overproduction, and chronic inflammation of the pilosebaceous unit. Research suggests that the damaging of lipids in the skin via free radicals may be responsible for the inflammatory component of acne.[237]
Nicotinamide has been noted for its anti-inflammatory effects in various disorders. The exact mechanism by which nicotinamide exerts its anti-inflammatory effects is unknown, however, it is believed that the anti-inflammatory effects may be a result of inhibition of histamine release by mast cells, blockade of histamine receptors, inhibition of neutrophil chemotaxis, and secretion of inflammatory mediators. Thus, its use as a topical treatment for acne vulgaris has been explored.[238]
A double-blind, randomized, active-controlled trial in 1995, found that patients who applied 4% nicotinamide gel to their faces twice a day, had similar outcomes to patients who applied 1% clindamycin gel to their faces twice a day, with regards to reduction in acne severity and reduction in acne lesion count. The reduction in papulopustule count and reduction in acne severity was more prominent in the nicotinamide group after 8 weeks of therapy, however, these differences were not significant. The acne lesion count decreased from 27.6 ± 2.1 to 13.5 ± 2.8 (-59.5 ± 9.0%) in the nicotinamide-treatment group compared to a reduction from 29.3 ± 2.0 to 17.0 ± 2.4 (-42.7 ±7.8%) in the clindamycin-treatment group. The acne severity ratings decreased to 2.48 ± 0.39 in nicotinamide-treated group (-51.6 + 7.0%) compared to 3.07 ± 0.33 in the clindamycin-treated group (-38.4 ± 6.1%).[238]
A similarly designed study, aimed to compare 4% nicotinamide gel to 1% clindamycin gel with regard to acne severity reduction, however, this study also took into account the type of skin (oily vs. non-oily), which was determined by a sebumeter.[239] The researchers classified the skin types as oily (mean facial sebum > 66 lg/cm2) or non-oily (66 lg/cm2 > mean facial sebum). After 8 weeks of therapy, the results indicated that the clindamycin-treated patients with non-oily skin had the greatest reduction in acne severity, followed by the nicotinamide-treated patients with oily skin, the clindamycin-treated patients with oily skin, and finally, the nicotinamide-treated patients with non-oily skin. However, there were no significant differences in acne severity reduction between the clindamycin-treated group and the nicotinamide-treated group.
It is believed that because excess oil results in more inflammatory pustules, nicotinamide's anti-inflammatory effects make it more desirable as a topical treatment for those with oily skin. It is likely that clindamycin’s anti-bacterial effects are more effective in a non-oily environment because it is less ideal for Propionibacterium acnes, the bacteria linked to acne vulgaris. Because an oily environment is ideal for P. acnes, non-oily skin will have less of these bacteria than oily skin, which means that the use of clindamycin will result in less antibiotic resistant bacteria in non-oily skin types thus, making it the preferable treatment for those who produce less oil on their skin.[239]
4% nicotinamide gel is as effective as 1% clindamycin gel in reducing acne severity and acne lesions after at least 8 weeks of treatment. Nicotinamide is likely to be more effective in those who have oily skin types while clindamycin is likely to be more effective in those who have non-oily skin types.
Proliferation of keratinocytes is not affected by niacinamide.[240]
The process of melanogenesis (production of melanin) and tyrosinase activity in culture does not appear to be influenced by niacinamide up to 10mM.[240] Niacin does appear to induce skin-lightening secondary to reducing transfer of melanosomes (35-68% inhibition at 1mM),[240] suggesting that it may interfere with communication between keratinocytes and melanocytes, since melanosomes transfer melanin to keratinocytes.[241]
Nicotinamide appears to confer skin lightening effects.
Niacinamide is claimed to be the ideal form of vitamin B3 for skin use due to its nonirritating properties and high stability in cosmetic products.[236] Although some other cosmetic additives such as Vitamin A have benefits at high concentrations, they also tend to be irritating, causing skin reddening and increased sensitivity. Other forms of niacin including nicotinic acid and its esters are associated with uncomfortable skin flushing.[240] While niacin causes flushing via acting on its receptor, HM74A,[18] niacinamide does not bind this receptor [19] and is therefore not associated with skin flushing.
Red blotchiness appears to be reduced after 12 weeks treatment of 5% niacinamide cream even though there was no benefit noted after 4-8 weeks.[236]
Skin yellowing appears to be reduced in a time-dependent manner with 8 or more weeks of 5% niacinamide cream applied to the face,[236] which has been noted elsewhere with a 2% cream over four weeks in tanned japanese women.[240]
Fine wrinkling (crow's feet) appears to be reduced in a time-dependent manner with a 5% niacinamide facial cream, with no effects being noted after 4 weeks while benefits increased progressively after 8 and 12 weeks.[236]
Skin elasticity also appears to be improved in middle-aged subjects given 5% niacinamide cream for 12 weeks relative to placebo.[236]
Application of a 5% niacinamide cream to the face of japanese women with brown skin pigmentation appeared to reduce hyperpigmentation after four weeks before reaching a plateau.[240] In women who were visibly tanned, 2% niacinamide showed a skin lightening effect that was not additive with sunscreen.[240]
When applied topically for a prolonged period of time, niacinamide has been shown to increase the quality and appearance of skin.